The otherworldly ovoo

September 17, 2008 by Karin.

An ovoo may look like a random pile of stones on the side of the road but they’re actually places of worship, shaman style. We got to watch Batdolgor pray (probably for the baby she was separated from in order to be with us). She walked around the pile three times, pausing to whisper to the gods a few times. Then at the end, picked up a stone from the ground and caressed it with more whispery prayers before tossing it into the pile as an offering.

This ovoo was at the top of a hill overlooking Kharkhorin. Unlike others we’d seen, this one had horse skulls line up beside it. Later, a guide told us that the skulls belonged to particularly heroic, respected horses. What an honorable way to be laid to rest. 

As we drove in the countryside later on, the guide pointed out nondescript piles of rocks. She explained that they were burial sites of soldiers fallen during the era of Ghengis Khan. I wish I had a photo to show here but to be honest, I could never tell one pile of rocks from another. In the van, we constantly asked the guide, ”There! There! Is that one of those ancient burial sites?”

“No, that’s probably where some kids gathering rocks to play with.” 

“How about that one? Is that a Ghengis Khan burial site?”

“No…that’s just a pile of rocks.”

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